Questions & answers

The most common causes are a dirty filter or condenser coil, a failed capacitor that keeps the outdoor fan or compressor from starting, low refrigerant from a leak, or an iced-over indoor coil. Check the filter and make sure the outdoor unit is running and clear of debris. If it still blows warm, turn the system off so the compressor isn't damaged, and call us.

Ice usually means too little airflow or too little refrigerant. A clogged filter, closed vents, a weak blower or a dirty evaporator coil can drop the coil below freezing, and a refrigerant leak does the same. Switch the system off or to fan only so it thaws, replace the filter, and have it checked if it ices again. Running it frozen can ruin the compressor.

In many cases, yes. New R-22 has not been produced in the U.S. since 2020, so repairs rely on recovered and reclaimed refrigerant, which makes recharging costly. A small, findable leak on a system in good shape can be worth fixing. A large leak or a failed compressor on an R-22 unit usually points toward replacement. We give you both options before any work.

Sometimes. A capacitor, contactor or fan motor is a modest repair that can keep an older unit running for years. A big repair, like a compressor or coil, on a 15-year-old system is often money better put toward a new one, especially since new systems use newer refrigerants and run more efficiently. We look at age, condition and repair history and tell you which way we would go.

Make sure the thermostat is set to cool and below room temperature, and check its batteries. Look at the breakers for the indoor and outdoor units, and confirm the disconnect switch next to the outdoor unit is on. Replace a dirty filter. If a breaker trips again after one reset, leave it off and call us, since repeated tripping usually points to an electrical or compressor problem.

Size depends on more than square footage. Insulation, windows, which way the house faces, attic ducts and the number of people all change the load. A unit that is too big cycles on and off and leaves rooms clammy, while one that is too small runs nonstop on 100-degree days. We run a load calculation so the new system fits your house, not the old unit's tonnage.

New AC and heat pump equipment made since January 2025 uses lower-GWP refrigerants, mainly R-454B or R-32. Federal rules now allow installing leftover R-410A split systems built before 2025, but California has its own refrigerant limits, supply is shrinking and parts will get harder to find. For most homes we recommend the newer refrigerant, and we show you what is available when we quote.

Yes. California's Title 24 energy code requires a building permit for an AC change-out, and most also need ECC (formerly HERS) verification by a third-party rater. Replacing the outdoor or indoor unit usually triggers a duct leakage test, and leaky ducts must be sealed to pass. We pull the permit with your city or the County and meet the inspector, so the job closes out properly.

It is often worth a look. A heat pump replaces the AC and can take over most or all of your heating, which fits East County's hot summers and mild winters. The Bay Area Air District's zero-NOx rule for new furnaces starts in 2029, so switching now can save a second change-out later. The right choice depends on your panel, ducts and budget, so we quote both.

Fewer than before. The federal energy tax credit ended for systems installed after 2025, and most state and regional heat pump rebates for single-family homes are fully reserved or waitlisted this year. Income-qualified programs through PG&E, MCE and BayREN may still help some households. We tell you what is open when we quote and point you to the program so you can apply.

Common signs are rooms that never get enough air, a big temperature difference between floors, dusty rooms, ducts you can see sagging or crushed in the attic, torn insulation, or a system that runs constantly. Age matters too, since flex duct from the 1980s and 1990s often breaks down in hot attics. A duct inspection and airflow test show whether repair or full replacement makes sense.

Usually it is airflow, not the equipment. The duct to that room may be disconnected, kinked, too small or too long, or the room may have no return path when the door is closed. Rooms over garages and west-facing rooms also take on more heat. We measure airflow at the registers and trace the duct to find the cause, then fix the run or redesign it.

Usually. Under California's Title 24 energy code, replacing the indoor or outdoor unit of a split system generally triggers a duct leakage test by an ECC (formerly HERS) rater. Existing ducts must test at or below 10% total leakage or 7% leakage to the outside, or pass an alternative test. Ducts that fail need sealing or replacement before the permit can close.

If the ducts are in good shape but a few runs are disconnected, crushed or leaky, repair and sealing are usually enough. If the flex duct is brittle, the insulation is falling apart, or the layout never delivered enough air, replacement costs less over time than repeated patching. Replacing ducts at the same time as your equipment is also cheaper than doing them later as a separate job.

Yes. Leaky return ducts in the attic or crawlspace pull in dust, insulation fibers and hot, dirty air, then spread it through the house. That shows up as dust on furniture, musty smells and allergy flare-ups, and it gets worse on wildfire smoke days. Sealing or replacing the ducts and using a good filter cuts down on what gets pulled in.

Yes. We work with property managers, on-site maintenance supervisors and HOA boards, and we can take calls from your office for any unit at the property. Tell us how you want work approved, who meets us on site and how you want the paperwork handled, and we will set the account up that way so your staff isn't re-explaining the property on every call.

Yes. A turnover is the easiest time to catch problems, because the unit is empty and nobody is waiting on heat or air. We typically check or replace the filter, test heating and cooling, look at the condensate drain and coil, check the thermostat, and note anything that should be repaired or budgeted. You get a short write-up for the unit file before the new tenant moves in.

We start by walking the property and recording each system's type, age and condition, so the owner can see which units are close to failing and which have years left. From there we can price a phased plan, such as one building or one floor per budget cycle, and schedule installs around tenants. Permits, equipment lifts and recycling of the old equipment are built into the plan.

Whichever way works for your property. Some managers want every request to come through the office, and others are fine with the on-site maintenance lead calling us directly. Either way, we confirm who can approve repairs, and up to what scope, before we start, so a tenant call doesn't turn into an unapproved invoice. Your office hears what we found and what we did.

Some multifamily programs are still open even though most single-family heat pump rebates have closed. As of fall 2026, BayREN's multifamily program and TECH Clean California's multifamily offers were still listed, and MCE runs multifamily rebates for properties in its service area. Eligibility depends on building size, tenant income and timing, so check with the program before committing to an install schedule.